Adding a fan to a washroom

[Mr. Apollo]

I have two upstairs washrooms that have windows but no fans (when the house was built for us the code said a washroom window or fan was all that was needed; not both).

Thankfully my attic is unfinished so installing the fans and vents to the outside is simple. The only part I am unsure of is the electrical connection.

I have an exisiting light switch in both bathrooms for the light and I'd like to ideally install a timer like this one (http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=6869&section=10104). Now my question is how hard is it to install an additional switch? Does anyone know roughly how much would an electrician charge to install it?

The biggest problem is that the walls are boviosuly finshed so they're going to have to be opened to install the switch.

I guess I could go with something like this (http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=8904&section=10077) as it controls two devices and eliminates all the mess of installing a second switch. However, I like the timer capability of the other option.

[Aristera]

Adding the switch won't be a problems and can be done without damaging the finished walls. Any electrician worth his salt would be able to rib out the existing box and install a 2 gang box. It's running the line that would be the issue so that double switch won't really solve anything. But if the power runs from the switch to the attic, they would be able to trace that line to the attic and drill down beside it without having to open up the wall to run a line for the fan. This all depends on there being room to move in the attic but if it's too small a space then they would need to cut a small hole in the wall near the ceiling to run a line up and over to where ever the fan goes.

As for cost, I'm not 100% on pricing but I'll throw a ballpark of $200-$400 for what sounds to be about 1-2 hours work.

[lovey]

I have two upstairs washrooms that have windows but no fans (when the house was built for us the code said a washroom window or fan was all that was needed; not both).

Thankfully my attic is unfinished so installing the fans and vents to the outside is simple. The only part I am unsure of is the electrical connection.

I have an exisiting light switch in both bathrooms for the light and I'd like to ideally install a timer like this one (http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=6869&section=10104). Now my question is how hard is it to install an additional switch? Does anyone know roughly how much would an electrician charge to install it?

The biggest problem is that the walls are boviosuly finshed so they're going to have to be opened to install the switch.

I guess I could go with something like this (http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=8904&section=10077) as it controls two devices and eliminates all the mess of installing a second switch. However, I like the timer capability of the other option.
appollo,hooking up the fan is not a problem,venting the fan is you big problem as you need a roofer to put in a flashing to connect the fan exhaust too?

[Mr. Apollo]

Adding the switch won't be a problems and can be done without damaging the finished walls. Any electrician worth his salt would be able to rib out the existing box and install a 2 gang box. It's running the line that would be the issue so that double switch won't really solve anything. But if the power runs from the switch to the attic, they would be able to trace that line to the attic and drill down beside it without having to open up the wall to run a line for the fan. This all depends on there being room to move in the attic but if it's too small a space then they would need to cut a small hole in the wall near the ceiling to run a line up and over to where ever the fan goes.

As for cost, I'm not 100% on pricing but I'll throw a ballpark of $200-$400 for what sounds to be about 1-2 hours work.I'm not too sure what you mean by "if the power runs from the switch to the attic, they would be able to trace that line to the attic and drill down beside it without having to open up the wall to run a line for the fan" are you talking about the power line supplying the current switch?

[Mr. Apollo]

appollo,hooking up the fan is not a problem,venting the fan is you big problem as you need a roofer to put in a flashing to connect the fan exhaust too?
Oh yeah I realize that, that's not an issue. I can just get a roofing company to hook up the two exterior vents properly with flashing and everything. My main concern is the electrical swich on the inside.

[Aristera]

I'm not too sure what you mean by "if the power runs from the switch to the attic, they would be able to trace that line to the attic and drill down beside it without having to open up the wall to run a line for the fan" are you talking about the power line supplying the current switch?

I meant the the wire that runs to or from the switch. If the wire goes from the switch and into the attic, you would be able to see the wire from the attic and know exactly where the wall is below. There for you could drill a hole into the wall from above without having to open up the wall and run your new wire into that.

[Mr. Apollo]

I meant the the wire that runs to or from the switch. If the wire goes from the switch and into the attic, you would be able to see the wire from the attic and know exactly where the wall is below. There for you could drill a hole into the wall from above without having to open up the wall and run your new wire into that.Yes, the wire runs from the switch, up the wall, and then into the attic and to the light. My main concern is how much the wall would have to be opened to install the second switch.

[SPARKY]

A good electrician will just enlarge the existing light switch opening to accommodate a double or triple gang box.

[lovey]

if there is a 2x4 in the wall where you want to mount the switch then a hole big enough for the electrical box is all you need as you can fish the wire to your attic

[Lesley]

I added a fan to my upstairs bathroom a few years ago, who wants to open the window when it's -40.

I spent the extra money and put in a high volume low noise fan, (http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=946058&Ntt=946058&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=0&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber) home depot carries them. You'll appreciate the quiet, believe me.

For the timer I used a simple Timer (http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=936373&Ntt=936373&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=0&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber)that you turn to set the time. The advantage is that the humidity in a bathroom won't affect and it's cheap. The one in my downstairs bathroom has been in place for 10 years and still works perfectly.

[Mr. Apollo]

if there is a 2x4 in the wall where you want to mount the switch then a hole big enough for the electrical box is all you need as you can fish the wire to your atticI assume there is a stud in the wall what else would the box be mounted to? I just hope it's only on one side so there's still room to add a double box.

[Mr. Apollo]

I added a fan to my upstairs bathroom a few years ago, who wants to open the window when it's -40.

I spent the extra money and put in a high volume low noise fan, (http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=946058&Ntt=946058&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=0&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber) home depot carries them. You'll appreciate the quiet, believe me.

For the timer I used a simple Timer (http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=936373&Ntt=936373&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=0&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber)that you turn to set the time. The advantage is that the humidity in a bathroom won't affect and it's cheap. The one in my downstairs bathroom has been in place for 10 years and still works perfectly.
Yeah I was looking at a Broan "ultra quiet" model and a timer for it so I can "set it and forget it". My issue is just with installing the switch in the wall. How did you go about doing it?

[Aristera]

Yes, the wire runs from the switch, up the wall, and then into the attic and to the light. My main concern is how much the wall would have to be opened to install the second switch.

Maybe I'm explaining to much of the how. No holes should be made in the wall other then what is needed for the boxes. A nice little cover place will clean everything up.

[Aristera]

Panasonic (http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Panasonic-FV-08VKS1-WhisperGreen-Ceiling-Ventilation-Fan/23003/Cat/1128) also makes good exhaust fans that are really quiet. Only problem with them being so quiet is that you need a timer or you forget that they are running.

I would recomend the digital timer that you originally linked opposed to the turn knob style. With less moving parts, the less there is to break, also what's the point of putting in a quiet fan if all you hear is the tick tick tick of the timer that runs it? Go digital for quiet.

[Mr. Apollo]

Panasonic (http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Panasonic-FV-08VKS1-WhisperGreen-Ceiling-Ventilation-Fan/23003/Cat/1128) also makes good exhaust fans that are really quiet. Only problem with them being so quiet is that you need a timer or you forget that they are running.

I would recomend the digital timer that you originally linked opposed to the turn knob style. With less moving parts, the less there is to break, also what's the point of putting in a quiet fan if all you hear is the tick tick tick of the timer that runs it? Go digital for quiet.The timer I originally posted is a digital model. (http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=6869&section=10104)

[Mr. Apollo]

Maybe I'm explaining to much of the how. No holes should be made in the wall other then what is needed for the boxes. A nice little cover place will clean everything up.
Ah OK I get it. So the hole won't have to be very big then I take it? Just the size of the box?

[Mouse]

You'll have to drill a hole in the header above the switch, so that you can drop a fish wire down from the attic.

A 2-gang box, or an add-on, will take care of the other switch/control.

[Mr. Apollo]

You'll have to drill a hole in the header above the switch, so that you can drop a fish wire down from the attic.

A 2-gang box, or an add-on, will take care of the other switch/control.
Yeah, my concern is just with adding in the 2 gang box. I don't want to have the wall ripped open to do that.

[Aristera]

The timer I originally posted is a digital model. (http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=6869&section=10104)

Yes, that was what I was recommending!



Yeah, my concern is just with adding in the 2 gang box. I don't want to have the wall ripped open to do that.

No concern! Not necessary to open the wall. Be at ease, simple job for the experienced.

[Number6]

Make sure the vent is properly sealed and insulated or you'll end up with condensation and mold issues ... I've seen this enough times to think some installers either don't get it or don't care.

[Aristera]

Make sure the vent is properly sealed and insulated or you'll end up with condensation and mold issues ... I've seen this enough times to think some installers either don't get it or don't care.

A little from column A, a little from column B.

[Mouse]

Take off the single switch plate, place the reversed 2-gang box against the wall, and draw your template.

The double switch plate will hide small errors. ;)

[Mr. Apollo]

Yes, that was what I was recommending!
:)



No concern! Not necessary to open the wall. Be at ease, simple job for the experienced.Good to hear.

[Mr. Apollo]

Make sure the vent is properly sealed and insulated or you'll end up with condensation and mold issues ... I've seen this enough times to think some installers either don't get it or don't care.Good point; I was planning to make sure that all the joints were duct taped.

[Mr. Apollo]

Take off the single switch plate, place the reversed 2-gang box against the wall, and draw your template.

The double switch plate will hide small errors. ;)Hmm if it's really that simple that's good to know. I might just try it myself.

[Mouse]

A hand dry-wall saw will serve you better.

Easier to control.

[Aristera]

Good point; I was planning to make sure that all the joints were duct taped.

Use aluminum tape. Duct tape is great for everything except for ducts.

[Number6]

Use aluminum tape. Duct tape is great for everything except for ducts.

Yes, duct tape is great for sealing cardboard boxes but not ducts, but beyond that make sure it is well insulated all the way to the roof... more is always better.

[Mr. Apollo]

Use aluminum tape. Duct tape is great for everything except for ducts.Yes, sorry that's what I meant. I have a few rolls of aluminum tape.

[Mr. Apollo]

Yes, duct tape is great for sealing cardboard boxes but not ducts, but beyond that make sure it is well insulated all the way to the roof... more is always better.
Do you mean wrapping insulation around the vent tube?

[Number6]

I would do that as a minimum and then box it in with rigid foam insulation with all the seams taped. Actually you can buy insulated ducting which would be better than wrapping it yourself, just get the best rating you can find it is mney well spent.

[Number6]

This is a pretty good article.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Improve/installbathfan.html&rn=RightNavFiles/rightNavHowTo#6

[Mr. Apollo]

cool, thanks

[lovey]

you can buy insulated duct made just for this application,code is 5 ft insulated duct from where you penatrate a outside connection back

[Mr. Apollo]

Is it just called insulated ductwork?

[Ken_ver_1_5]

this may give you an idea of what it is.
just one of many options.
http://www.rewci.com/4infldu25.html

[Mr. Apollo]

That's what I thought you were talking about.